ASSATEAUGE AND CHINCOTEAGUE

HISTORY OF CAPE HENLOPEN AND BEYOND

ASSATEAUGE AND CHINCOTEAGUE ISLANDS

The source of this abstract was found in the Saturday issue, August 23, 1873 ,

of “ The Democratic Advocate “ of Westminster, Maryland, under a column “The Traveler”,

written by J. P. Mathews, Esq., of “ The Baltimore American “.

Along the Atlantic coast of the Delmarva Peninsula, from Cape Charles, Virginia to Cape

Henlopen, Delaware, there stretches a narrow strip irregular sandy beach lands and

marshes, that become islands at low tides joined together by shoals and sand bars, which

can be navigated by small vessels into the Sinepuxent Bay's still waters. Called sounds, they are up to six miles wide with a channel known only to islands natives.

Here lies the small town of Chincoteague and, it's own island , also Chincoteague, one mile wide and five miles long, just into Virginia. There are no good records of settlement

among the islanders themselves, however, it is believed that the first settlers came in 1750 or there about and came as herdsmen to look after cattle owned by the prosperous main land owners of Accomack County, Virginia and the Assateague Island chain who let their cattle

graze the islands. The residents for the past 40 years are descendents of these herdsmen.

There were no more than 20 homes built on the islands . Within the years the mainland

land owners abandoned the islands and the herdsmen became owners of both the lands and

stock.

Upper Assateague is in Maryland and was settled by a small colony of salt makers, their

ancient hearths remains were seen in 1873 at this writing. Salt was a precious commodity

during the Revolution , British had the Delaware River blockaded, so,, the Assateague

salt boilers had to become blockade runners. One was Captain Scott, who with his swift

sailing schooner, stole up through the sounds, evading hostile vessels, to land the cargo

of salt on Philadelphia wharfs.

Then came 1844 and the islanders had not much to do except fish in the summer from

small sailing vessels out off the islands. This too, was the first year to the planting of oyster beds which opened a new industry to the Assateague Islanders. Chincoteague

oysters, (Some of these islanders pronounced them “ Eyesters”. ) became famous for

a special taste and the handy availability . It took all the vessels o f the vicinity of the

sound to carry the succulent bivalves to Philadelphia and New York.

The Chincoteague Islanders have become another sea faring people and the kings of the

Oyster industry on the Delmarva Peninsula.

These native islanders , in general, were rather illiterate and few adults could read and write. After The Civil War schools were established and conducted by Virginia and a

two story frame school house was built in the center of Chincoteague o some student had to cross waters to make it to school everyday. In 1873 there were 65 students, most of the

time., in attendance.

During the Civil War, the Revenue boats, cruised about, looking for smugglers and

blockade runners. The spirit of enterprise developed, the oyster business expanded,

children stayed , homes were built. In 1870 the census was 1500.

There was no doctor until 1859, doctors from Snow Hill or Hornetown, serviced the islanders, and “home cure” and old mamma doctors, did the job. The death rate was

considered low for the state average.

The Chincoteague oyster trade took over early Chincoteague, there are few corn patches,

wheat and rye don't grow here. Vegetables would grow in abundance but the islanders

feel there is too much hard work in gardening. Oysters are the lifeline. “After all, we have to be filled with cheerfulness, fist a bit in the sound, spend time in idleness on the shore,

an take sundry drinks to relieve the day”. Heavy drinking is the prevailing vice here.

Crimes are exceedingly rare, stealing is almost unknown, seldom a fight, even with the

heavy drinking done. The young people of Assateague marry the other young people of Asseteague and stay on the island, to dig oysters. Some older residents have lived and

died with out ever crossing the sound.

There are upper and lower classes but wealth has no influence to the social status. There are

four churches on the islands with less than 2000 people.

Also, there is a lighthouse on Assateague, it stands o a sand bank 29 feet above sea level,

as is the light 150 feet above sea level. The sand ridge which runs through Chincoteague

is covered with pines and sea grass and a grave yard. The cemetery holds the first of the

settlers and sits on the island highest point. History shows of storms, an 1821 tidal wave

drowned may ponies and washed away a lot of beach. Another tidal wave hit in 1866 .

History calls for burials on Rattlesnake Ridge a grave yard with no memorial on the stones.

The uncultured islanders, some of whom you will want to become better acquainted, never

complain about the heat, nor the need to fish the sounds for salt water trout, day by

day.

The Atlantic Hotel. Well patronized by oyster trade dealers from the cities, pony dealers,

and in good weather, some tourist. Out of town, or out of state fishermen come often.

How to get to Assateague? The quickest was is the longest way. Leave Baltimore by the

&:25 AM train on the Philadlephia, Wilmington, and Baltimore railway, get you to Salisbury

by 3 PM. Here take Wicomic and Pocomoke Railroad to Snow Hill, arrive 7PM. You need to make friends with the Horntown mail carrier as his one horse carriage can take two or three

riders over a smooth road and not at all unpleasant and gets you to Hornetown at 10 PM.

And there you stay until morning when the hotel keeper will get you off for the 3 miles

to the shore where sloops and sail boats cross the bay getting you to the Atlantic Hotel at 10AM.

Abstract: Saturday August 23, 1873, Westminster, Maryland, Democrat Advocate under

the pen of J. P. Mathews, Esq., Baltimore American